Bernese Oberland Winter Guide

We stayed in Spiez because of its strategic location for direct train trips, and I would highly recommend it for that reason alone. It sits at a very useful rail junction, which made it easy to head out each day without complicated transfers or backtracking.

The tradeoff is that Spiez is a very quiet town, especially in winter, so it is not the place to stay if you want a lot of energy or nightlife. But as a calm, efficient base for the Bernese Oberland, it worked extremely well.

We stayed at La Belle Vue Boutique Hotel, which worked especially well for this kind of trip and even offered laundry service. The room was a bit tight but worked fine, and the deck overlooking the Alps made the stay feel more special than the size alone would suggest.

From Spiez we visited four towns, each with its own character. Thun is a compact medieval town with a castle overlooking the lake — perfect for a half-day wander. Bern, the Swiss capital, is an easy ~30-minute train ride and feels entirely different: wide arcaded streets, the famous clock tower, and a relaxed city pace that suits families well.

Lauterbrunnen is one of the most dramatic valleys in the Alps, with sheer cliffs and waterfalls framing the village. In winter the crowds thin out and the scenery becomes even more striking. Grindelwald sits higher up with direct views of the Eiger and made for a memorable final day — even without skiing, the village atmosphere and mountain backdrop are worth the trip.

We used a Eurail pass throughout this leg of the trip and found it to be a fantastic way to travel on a whim. There was no need to book individual tickets in advance — we could simply check the timetable and hop on the next train. In a region where trains run frequently and the scenery from the window is half the experience, the pass felt like great value.

It's worth noting that some mountain railway segments require a supplement or are not covered, so check before you board. But for the main intercity connections and the routes between Spiez, Thun, Bern, Lauterbrunnen, and Grindelwald, the pass worked seamlessly.

All four towns were charming in different ways, and the Christmas atmosphere added something extra — decorated streets, warm lights reflecting off snow, and the unhurried pace of a region that really leans into the season. If you're looking for a winter break that balances alpine scenery with easy logistics and genuinely enjoyable towns, the Bernese Oberland based in Spiez is hard to beat.